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Routes in Flapping.../Nuclear arms area

Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diamond Dogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Disco T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flappin' In the Breeze T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Accurate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugaree T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Proctor, Peter White (1985, ground-up)
Page Views: 428 total, 6/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Mar 9, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a route that will surely test your nut placing ability. The thin seams that run the length of the route are very shallow and often flared in the wrong direction. Most of the route has very moderate moves with one stopper crux move.

Two approaches exist for getting to the base. You can use Nuclear Arms or use the "3rd" class ramp from the base of Flappin' in the Breeze. We chose the ramp. The ramp is slightly dirty with only a few places for gear in solid rock. Overall an okay way to approach the base. If you use the ramp, stretch a 60m rope to it's end and get your partner to simul. climb about 20' to get to the base of Sugaree.

From the base you will notice thin intermittent seams with a pin in the middle. Start through secure ledges with no gear until about 20'. Start working in your smallest nuts. Continue moving up passing the pin until you can step slightly left at a crack that goes up and left. It is imperative to get the good medium sized stopper and TCU placements here for the crux move. Once you got the gear, make the very difficult lie-back sort of move to get to the good hands again. Unfortunately, the feet in the crux are covered in moss and are slick. A brush is not a bad idea. Once through the crux, the crack gets bigger and the gear gets better. Continue up and left until you are on a sloping terrace. About 20' to the left is a two-nut anchor at the right side of a giant block.

Location

Use the nut anchor to rap to a two-bolt anchor about 100' lower. Rap again to reach the ramp where there is a good pine tree and another rap station. Rap back down the ramp. The other option is to top the entire cliff out and walk to climbers right over Lakeview and down the gully on the right side of Lakeview near the Kennel.

Protection

Mostly nuts and RP's, with an occasional TCU or tri-cam. At least 10 slings for all the nuts and two 60m ropes. A few flared pods near the pin and after the crux will take tri-cams nicely up to navy or hand sized cams. We did not have RP's, so this can be done with stoppers only, but won't be as secure.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I believe Nathan and Tim updated the hardware at the top when they completed another route that finishes through here. I don't remember the anchor being particularly bad. Jan 6, 2016
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.10a
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.10a
It's been 7-8 years since I've done Sugaree. Is the crummy rap set up still 2 janky nuts, unequalized with a small quicklink?
This climb is well worthy, but obscure in location. And the rap anchor is just... well... as described. Jan 5, 2016