Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m)|
|FA:||Jim Proctor, Peter White (1985, ground-up)|
|Page Views:||943 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Caldwell on Mar 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Two approaches exist for getting to the base. You can use Nuclear Arms or use the "3rd" class ramp from the base of Flappin' in the Breeze. We chose the ramp. The ramp is slightly dirty with only a few places for gear in solid rock. Overall an okay way to approach the base. If you use the ramp, stretch a 60m rope to it's end and get your partner to simul. climb about 20' to get to the base of Sugaree.
From the base you will notice thin intermittent seams with a pin in the middle. Start through secure ledges with no gear until about 20'. Start working in your smallest nuts. Continue moving up passing the pin until you can step slightly left at a crack that goes up and left. It is imperative to get the good medium sized stopper and TCU placements here for the crux move. Once you got the gear, make the very difficult lie-back sort of move to get to the good hands again. Unfortunately, the feet in the crux are covered in moss and are slick. A brush is not a bad idea. Once through the crux, the crack gets bigger and the gear gets better. Continue up and left until you are on a sloping terrace. About 20' to the left is a two-nut anchor at the right side of a giant block.