Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
Routes in Flapping.../Nuclear arms area
|Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Diamond Dogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Digital Disco T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Flappin' In the Breeze T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nuclear Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Slab Accurate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sugaree T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Jim Proctor, Peter White (1985, ground-up)|
|Page Views:||428 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||TomCaldwell on Mar 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionThis is a route that will surely test your nut placing ability. The thin seams that run the length of the route are very shallow and often flared in the wrong direction. Most of the route has very moderate moves with one stopper crux move.
Two approaches exist for getting to the base. You can use Nuclear Arms or use the "3rd" class ramp from the base of Flappin' in the Breeze. We chose the ramp. The ramp is slightly dirty with only a few places for gear in solid rock. Overall an okay way to approach the base. If you use the ramp, stretch a 60m rope to it's end and get your partner to simul. climb about 20' to get to the base of Sugaree.
From the base you will notice thin intermittent seams with a pin in the middle. Start through secure ledges with no gear until about 20'. Start working in your smallest nuts. Continue moving up passing the pin until you can step slightly left at a crack that goes up and left. It is imperative to get the good medium sized stopper and TCU placements here for the crux move. Once you got the gear, make the very difficult lie-back sort of move to get to the good hands again. Unfortunately, the feet in the crux are covered in moss and are slick. A brush is not a bad idea. Once through the crux, the crack gets bigger and the gear gets better. Continue up and left until you are on a sloping terrace. About 20' to the left is a two-nut anchor at the right side of a giant block.