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Routes in April Fools Wall

Fools Paradise T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fools Rush In T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mean Weener T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fo, Merridouche, Sukow
Page Views: 632 total, 9/month
Shared By: jonfoster on Mar 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Worth doing if you're in the area. P1 stays shady later, but P2 gets sun several hours earlier than Mean Weener. Plaque currently says Fools Rush In. There's already a route of this name at the cliff, so this should be changed.


P1 - is the obvious, left facing corner on the left side of April Fool’s Wall. This corner is fairly distinct from the road.
Begin with slightly chossy rock that gets much better around the 20 foot mark. Follow the corner system ~100 feet to the top of the ledge. Chain Anchor

P2 - trends up and left off the ledge face climbing past a few drilled angles and bolts. A red C3 sized piece (or maybe a similar sized offset alien) feels pretty crucial for clipping the first bolt over the bulge. Then move left into the obvious crack system and follow it to the anchor on top of the next ledge. Some cruxy face moves plus some wideness towards the top of the pitch keep it interesting. Consider bringing some backup webbing for this anchor. You can rap this pitch with one 70meter rope. I don’t think a 60m will reach the ledge.

P3 – fairly short pitch. Aid up thin crack that gradually widens into free climbing terrain and ends at a bolted anchor at a stance below the wide crack.

P4 – get your wide game on. I mostly aided this on #5’s and 6’s. Ended the pitch fairly short due to waning daylight. I think you might be able to rap to the P2 anchor with one 70M.

P5+? Unclimbed. Wideness and loose blocks. Have at it if you want some more adventure.

Location

Begins with the obvious left facing corner on the left side of the April Fool's Wall (see beta pic).

Protection

Pitches 1 & 2:
single set C3s
double set cams .3 - #3 C4
2 extra .75 & #1 C4s for
1 x #4 C4

If going higher, bring multiples in the green & purple C3 sizes plus multiple #5 & 6 C4s

Photos

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
This line looks sick! I can't wait to get on that headwall splitter. Did you guys free the entire line?

BTW can an admin move this to the April Fools Wall I just added? It's the furthest left line on the wall. Oct 9, 2017