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M6 Corner

WI4+ M6, Trad, Mixed, Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 13 votes
FA: ??
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Camp Bird Rd
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Description

This great corner is better then it looks. Erik Wellborn and I had eyed it out before hand. As luck would have it, there is a bolt after 15 feet, along with tat on the trees, so it's been climbed.

P1. Climb the corner until a bolt is reached. and then dry tool up the slightly overhanging corner with not too bad of gear. Belay at tree (I thought the crux was almost the first half of the corner), M6ish. This is in your face and the real deal.

P2. Traverse right around the corner to hopefully some kind of ice. When we did it, it was kind of sun baked. Some mixed climbing with good cams were used to get to the thicker ice. It is a pretty short pitch. Belay at the tree.

The route is pretty awesome. It has an alpine feel to it as the climbing is pretty scrappy. It's all there. Go try it and let me know your thoughts!

Location

About a hundred feet left of Slip Sliding Away brings one to a corner with a lone bolt almost not to far up. P2 can be seen above that with ice. One 60 rap brings one to the ground.

Protection

Knifeblade, maybe a LA. Bring extra small gear including 0.4s. A #3 came in handy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric Wright.<br>
<br>
Photo: Rob Jungheimer.
[Hide Photo] Eric Wright. Photo: Rob Jungheimer.
2014-01-18.
[Hide Photo] 2014-01-18.
The route follows the corner. P2 is kind of seen above and right with the ice.
[Hide Photo] The route follows the corner. P2 is kind of seen above and right with the ice.
Kes experiencing "alpine conditions" at Camp Bird Rd.
[Hide Photo] Kes experiencing "alpine conditions" at Camp Bird Rd.
Danny on P2.
[Hide Photo] Danny on P2.
Erik Wellborn following P1.
[Hide Photo] Erik Wellborn following P1.
Danny Murphy following P2.
[Hide Photo] Danny Murphy following P2.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill F
boulder
[Hide Comment] Most true to the grade traditional M6 In the area. Tension is the name of the game. Jan 16, 2022