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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Unknown FRA: Jason Molina, Andy Hansen
Page Views: 482 total · 6/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Mar 6, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

If you ever find yourself wandering from the vicinity of Dog Police to Community Pillar, Honeycomb Chimney, Small Purchase, etc. then you might see this line. If that's the case you could potentially climb this line.

To the left of Community Pillar is a amphitheater like feature with a splitter handcrack next to a corner covered in bushes. This is the route of Chocolate Cornhole.

Scramble up dirty ledges to reach the varnished crack. Use the adjacent corner on the right to get into the crack. About 20 feet up you'll be forced to commit to the left crack. Lieback & jam your way up this to the top where a slopey and lichen encrusted chimney awaits. Up this and anchor at a tree.

A sling and locker remain for the rappel after the coveted 2nd Ascent of this beauty.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Hand to fist sized cams.

Photos

Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.10a
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.10a
This is a great way to approach Honeycomb Chimney. A really fun route, seems better than the 1 star these guys gave it, and harder than the 5.8 would let on. A bolted anchor waits at the top.

Doubles .75-2. Single 3 and 4. Apr 7, 2018

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