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Black Widow
5.12-,
Trad, 165 ft (50 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Irby, P and Hickok, J
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Day Canyon
> Day Canyon Cragging R…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This long left facing corner would probably clean up with regular ascents, but may be a little sugary.
The crux climbing comes in the top third of the route where, if I remember correctly, the sustained corner climbing is 1 to 1.5" in size.
There is a protection bolt a third of the way up the route, and another one was added later. Not sure where.
Sorry about the vagueness, but I wanted to post the route for documentation and to offer the info up to people looking at M.P..
Not sure of length, but bring two ropes to be sure.
Location
Hike up Day Canyon passing the Raptor and Bootleg Towers. Round the corner where the canyon bends left and continues in a westerly direction. I think you pass below Aerobicide, and then hump up the hill on the left (shady) side of the canyon. This route is long left facing corner with some wider flared stuff halfway up. A couple minutes up the wall from Another Fine Day.
See beta photos, and again I'm pretty sure I remember this being a little up the canyon from Aerobicide, but I'm not 100% sure. Photo below shows approximate location of route right near Another Fine Day.
Protection
Heavier on 0.5" to 1.5", but I can't remember. Mix of larger gear possible. At least one quickdraw for one protection bolt. Probably want to bring a diverse rack or consult P. Irby in Moab.
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moab, ut