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Routes in Negress Wall

Ambassadors of Funk S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Ice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear of a Black Planet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imprisoned Behind Lies S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
James Brown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Malcolm X S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Procrastinator, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sidewinder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet & Sour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Z Dong T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mary & Tai Devore
Page Views: 826 total, 12/month
Shared By: Shadow Ayala on Mar 5, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Start on good rock to the right of the old school rusty chain anchor and single button head. Climb the face and ledges to the base of the obvious dihedral. The dihedral is classic and fun. Climb easy ground for 3 bolts. When the dihedral closes, no hands stemming and reachy moves on slopers and vertical micro edges keeps things interesting. Insecure and creative climbing up the slippery, varnished corner brings you to the bouldery crux at the top. The steep bulge at the chains offers up a hard to read boulder problem that makes you think twice about your tactics. Guaranteed.

Location

At the top of the Negress Wall. You can scramble in from the central gorge approach trail. There is a bolted belay.

Protection

10 bolts

Photos

Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
 
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
 
I could care less about the FA. I was talking about your comment. "He forgot we ever did it and left the rope up there so long Shadow thought he could get the FA." You make it sound like I helped myself to the route because the rope was up for years. Hence Jeff's comment. That is not what happened. Dec 8, 2016
Shadow i am filling in the facts for you now. I am sorry that it was misleading because Tai forgot, but the FA was done in Spring 2010. Dec 8, 2016
Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
 
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
 
I had no idea that it had been done. I was just going off of what Tai told me. He told me to go out there and do the FA. Way to make a person look bad, thanks a lot Mary. Incidentally, I do NOT just jump on other peoples projects, even if the rope has been hanging for years. You should get your facts straight lady. Dec 8, 2016
??? Your saying you and Tai cleaned, bolted and sent this route then Shadow claimed a first? Really? Who does that? Dec 7, 2016
Sorry Shadow- gotta set the record straight. The first ascent was done by Mary and Tai Devore. Tai was feeling bad the day we had a photo shoot for The Procrastinor and Better Late Than Never so I sent them. Tai of course did so much of the cleaning and other things, I helped out and then got the FA. Bruce Willey has the photos to document it. I am pretty sure we had rated it 12a but we will go back and do them again to double check if I can ever get Tai back to the Gorge.
Tai was supposed to do the 2nd ascent so we took off a hanger and left the rope up. He got bored of the gorge as he moved in to PC for better climbing. He forgot we ever did it and left the rope up there so long Shadow thought he could get the FA. But it was already done-just forgotten to Tai.
Mary Devore Dec 7, 2016
Rumor has it that this route is closer to 12b. Looks cool up there! Dec 5, 2015