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5.11d, Sport, 90 ft,
Avg: 2.8 from 17 votes
FA: JSt, EFR
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Pinhead Wall
A must do on the Pin Head wall.
Two cruxes, one low and one high with a powerful finish through the roof.
The 15 feet of easy climbing in the middle is welcome after the pumpy start and quickly forgotten as you tackle the face below the roof.
Just right at the top of the trail. Look for a low bolt that serves as a belay bolt and protection bolt.
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Don't worry I've been tested. Clumsy climbing and even clumsier hammer swings combined to give the route it's name.
Jimbo cleverly avoiding the bomber undercling on the first attempt.
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One of those routes I look forward to doing again. Love the powerful crimps low and the slopers that get you under the roof and the killer fingerlocks above. This route will rain on you for a while but the big stuff is solid. The wedge shaped flake at the lip has been pulled on for all it is worth.
Mar 2, 2012
Christian Roda o Back
Casa do Cacete
Bottom crux seems harder, wonder if something came off?
Jan 24, 2014
I agree but it is a bit easier if you are taller so I doubt anything came off.
Jan 25, 2014
Fabulous route with nice variety. My favorites at the crag so far are:
Go Speed Racer
, in that order.
Feb 9, 2014
Santa Cruz, CA
Tends to be dirty but fun, memorable movement. Low crux has always felt really hard to me for the grade... I think it's just super tricky, technical movement with holds facing weird directions. Upper sections is rad. Definitely worth climbing!
Dec 7, 2017
Did this again for the first time in a while. What a great route! So much variety of holds and movement.
Feb 11, 2018