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Routes in Aiguille du Peigne

ArĂȘte des Papillons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lepidopteres T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voie Contamine, West Face of Gendarme Rouge(Red) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1900 ft, 17 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 845 total · 11/month
Shared By: Colin Simon on Mar 2, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Big, wandery route.

Hop off the glacier and onto the rock. After 2-3 pitches there's a large ledge. Angle up and left towards a big chimney system where the climbing steepens.

It is still not straightforward - routefinding was our crux, but it is less wandery. Simply difficult to pick which crack system to use, as none continue perfectly.


Take the lift to the Plan de l'Aiguille, walk up a hill and to the base of the route. Research your route in the OHM - they have far more detailed information than I could hope to post on


Many bolted anchors early on, fewer higher up.


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