New York Gully
Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
Routes in Snoqualmie Mountain
|New York Gully 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI3 M5- A1-2|
|Type:||Aid, Mixed, Ice, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||4,583 total, 66/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Bartholomew on Feb 29, 2012|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThis is a fun route for the experienced alpinist. It has assorted elements including mixed, ice and some aid for those who can't climb hard mixed. We did it in 4 long pitches with some simuling with a 70 meter rope. So 5-6 without simuling with a 60 meter rope. The first pitch starts at the obvious gully down from the notch above the gully. Ascend about 200 feet up the gully and ascend the obvious ramp to the left. Belay from the quasi-cave. Ascend up and left for one pitch. Then ascend up and slightly right. The rest of the route follows the obvious weaknesses until you get to a small headwall. This is called a 5.8 crack. I was able to free it with only two moves of aid off fixed gear. The climbing above this is somewhat technical but a relief after the difficult aid moves.
LocationThis route is on the steep NW face.
Find the phantom slide (see below) and ascend more or less upwards and slightly left. Bear mostly up and somewhat left. Ideally, go with someone who knows the approach or follow a skin track as much of the approach is done through thick trees. As the grade decreases, bear left towards the notch. From the obvious notch, descend probably 200 vertical feet and traverse to the first obvious gully. Ascend roughly 200 vertical feet to the left traverse.
(Added Jan. 15, 2016:
About this "Phantom slide", here is some paraphrased info from
Park at the lot that about 200′ past the main (i.e., with footbridge) parking lot. Hike up right on the south-facing hill, heading for the Alpental waterfalls. At the bottom of the waterfalls, go left for about 100′ (into woods) and then straight up through two steep snowed-up cliff bands (often with ski or bootpack). After gaining about 300′ of elevation, move back to the right to the edge of the "Phantom Slide path".)