Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bear Mountain (near Newfound Lake)

Tweedle Dum WI3+ M3
Type: Mixed, Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 572 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Barber on Feb 27, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the line that goes right under the cave and up to a mixed finish. The climb is in the shade, so freezer effect sets in, and the temperature drops a bit while on route. The climb was actually a bit more exciting that I thought it would be from first glance. It goes up to the hanging icicles and traverses right and up through a corner. At the finish, there was a large plate of junky ice hanging from the top (see photo). I had to knock this off to access the nice crack underneath which is good for small stoppers and tri-cams and which offers very secure tool hooks.

On my first attempt, I sunk my tool into the ice on the top to make the final pull, but it detached and sent me down about 15 feet onto a stopper. The fall was very clean, and I went right back for another go, this time dry hooking the region where the ice that detached was and pulled through to some nice tree anchors about 15 feet back.

Location

You can make two repels from the top with a 60 meter rope (there are some good trees half way down the cliff), or you can lower the second down and rap most of the way, then down-climb the easy ice to the snowfield at the bottom.

Protection

Screws
Small nuts and tri-cams

Anchor off of trees at top.

Photos

Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
Both the right and the left finishes have been climbed many years ago by myself and others. Jan 1, 2013

More About Tweedle Dum

Printer-Friendly Guide