Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Ted Doughty & James Barnett
Page Views: 822 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Feb 26, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


This climb heads up a hand crack to a left to right diagonaling crack, which leads to a wide crack to the top. The crux is passing the bush growing in the middle of the traversing crack. Look hard for decent feet! A little gritty but a good climb nonetheless.


The start of this route is on the left side of the formation. Start up the hand crack then traverse out to the right. Reach a wide vertical crack on the right side and head to the top. Use open shuts, directly left of the finish (the open shuts are part of 5 bolt .10c route).


Pro 3/8" to #6 Camelot. #1 Camelot on the initial vertical crack. Small cams on the traversing crack (yellow and green alien, also a #2 Camelot helpful). The upper vertical crack takes a #5 and #6 Camelot (be sure to use slings to minimize rope drag). There are open shuts at the top, which are part of a bolted route next to the upper crack.


San Diego, Ca
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
Is there anyone out there with ANY beta on this climb at all?

I've wanted to try it for a while, but a vague description of an extended off-with at the top is disconcerting. Dec 11, 2014
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
Jeff -

I'm a little confused by your comment. The information listed above is pretty much straight forward. I'm not quite sure what you're looking for exactly. If you're worried about the off-width near the finish, its not that hard....I'd say 5.7/5.8 with a few face holds on the outside to make progress easier. I did use a #5 and #6 Camelot. Be sure to use longer slings once you get into the initial start to the off-width so you're not dealing with rope drag from the change in direction. The crux is during the traverse (.10a), fair to poor feet and the crack is part of a sloping narrow ledge that makes it awkward for being confident with hand position since it slopes to down and left while you are moving up and right. Comprende? The crack took a #1, .75 and a green and yellow Alien (best to my memory). I could make you a ham sandwich if you ask nicely. :) Apr 15, 2016