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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Doc Bayne, Nick Williams
Page Views: 687 total, 10/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Feb 23, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This bold, steep route is another memorable Doc Bayne adventure. Savor it.

Crank the creaky flakes to a nice crack section. Follow the crack up to a bolt and a stance. Climb past 2 more bolts(steep)into a right facing arch. Plug in a key cam or nut midway up the arch(hard to place)and blast up to jugs. Finish up the left facing crack/flake to the top.

The climbing is 4 star but the rock is less than perfect.

Location

Starts right of "Flakes of Wrath" at a steep broken crack/flake system.

Protection

Best led on doubles due to sharp flakes but can be done on a single with proper slinging. Small to medium nuts, cams to red BD size.

Photos

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TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
4 star movement, 1 star rock quality. Feb 24, 2014