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Step Into The Squeezer
5.10-,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 9
votes
FA: Andy Hansen & Jason Molina
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Black Velvet Ca…
> Monument
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
To the left of Chinese Handcuffs is a twin set of cracks that lead up to an ominous off-width flare; one wide on the right and one thin on the left.
This crack route has it all- liebacking, stemming, a roof, thin hands, hands, fingers, a lot of off-width flare climbing and even a little bit of face climbing. It will test your skillzzz.
Step Into The Squeezer begins with the left crack (the direct line, the wide crack, could potentially go with larger gear and probably a little more difficult). Lieback, stem and jam your way up strenuous 5.9 territory placing pro where necessary. When the crack sort of fades and merges into the wide...step right into the squeezer. From here work your way up the flare- a few #5 Camalots work nicely here although you're able to walk a single #5 up the whole way. When the flare ends face climb to a roof. Be careful here as some sandy chockstones could let loose at any moment. At the roof, make wide stems and exit right to belay at the tree above Chinese Handcuffs. This route is considerably more strenuous than Handbone. Alternatively you could belay in the alcove directly above the route however there isn't much in the way of solid gear for an anchor.
Descent: Rap or lower from bolted anchor directly above finishing overhang. 60m just barely makes it down. Tie knots!
Protection
Single Rack to #3 Camalot, 2 #5 Camalots
[Hide Photo] Step Into The Squeezer climbs up the left of the two cracks into the wide flare.
Nevada
Singles .3-5, with an extra 5 or 6. Lower on a 60m rope.
The right crack is hard 5.10 ow. I used 2 #5 cams and a #6. Nov 15, 2020
Chattanooga