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Step Into The Squeezer

5.10-, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Andy Hansen & Jason Molina
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velv… > Monument
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

To the left of Chinese Handcuffs is a twin set of cracks that lead up to an ominous off-width flare; one wide on the right and one thin on the left.

This crack route has it all- liebacking, stemming, a roof, thin hands, hands, fingers, a lot of off-width flare climbing and even a little bit of face climbing. It will test your skillzzz.

Step Into The Squeezer begins with the left crack (the direct line, the wide crack, could potentially go with larger gear and probably a little more difficult). Lieback, stem and jam your way up strenuous 5.9 territory placing pro where necessary. When the crack sort of fades and merges into the wide...step right into the squeezer. From here work your way up the flare- a few #5 Camalots work nicely here although you're able to walk a single #5 up the whole way. When the flare ends face climb to a roof. Be careful here as some sandy chockstones could let loose at any moment. At the roof, make wide stems and exit right to belay at the tree above Chinese Handcuffs. This route is considerably more strenuous than Handbone. Alternatively you could belay in the alcove directly above the route however there isn't much in the way of solid gear for an anchor.

Descent: Rap from the tree above Chinese Handcuffs

Protection

Single Rack to #3 Camalot, 2 #5 Camalots

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Step Into The Squeezer climbs up the left of the two cracks into the wide flare.
[Hide Photo] Step Into The Squeezer climbs up the left of the two cracks into the wide flare.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rprops
Nevada
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This climb is very friendly and very good. Relaxed 5.8 climbing with lots of rests until the last move, a tricky 5.9 puzzle to get out of the roof.
Singles .3-5, with an extra 5 or 6. Lower on a 60m rope.

The right crack is hard 5.10 ow. I used 2 #5 cams and a #6. Nov 15, 2020