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Routes in Palolo Valley Crag

Broken Tooth Brush V4+ 6B+
Easy A V1 5
Follow the Veins TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Poi Pounder V1 5
Traverse V4+ 6B+
Type: TR, 24 ft
FA: Lance McMullan (free solo)
Page Views: 1,336 total, 19/month
Shared By: Lance McMullan on Feb 20, 2012
Admins: 20 kN

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Details

Description

The bottom half is pretty quick, using the deep cracks. Once you are on top of that section, you reach for an undercling with your right hand, and then move your body far left and crimp the vein-like grooves running down the wall. Climb the upper slab using little parallel vertical edges for both hands. Wide reaches. Move feet up and then reach for slopers at the top, then top out.

Location

Route is directly in front of the path leading up to the wall. It is to the left of 'Broken Tooth Brush' and the vines hanging down, on the first clean section of rock. Upper section is green with moss, while the bottom is gray, solid rock.

Protection

Can either by top roped or a high boulder problem. If bouldering, you need a good crash pad. The landing of the climb is at the top of a hill, so it is pretty dangerous. You should have spotters. It is unbolted, but can be top-roped with a very large tree (3 ft diameter) above the route. Probably better to work on higher moves on top-rope first to minimize long falls. Need a lot of webbing to reach around the tree and back to the wall.

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