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Routes in The Tunnel

*Laramie Talk Show T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alvin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bergland's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain America's Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carter Goes to Haiti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coercive Utopians T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Interval T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dielectric Power T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Low Handcrack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Montreal Steak Seasoning T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nixon Goes to China T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Project "Arete" S A0+
Sauerkraut Shakedown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Traverse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walk Like an Egyptian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Woofer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kelley, Horning
Page Views: 280 total · 3/month
Shared By: ryan laird on Feb 20, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Mind the gap, then climb straight up the thin, slabby, splitter crack. If your lucky, play-by-play commentator Dingus McGee will be there to cheer you on.

Location

Starts above Woofer.

Protection

Thin gear to coldshuts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Tom Kelley
  5.11c
Tom Kelley  
  5.11c
It seems like the only time I ever named climbs at Reese Mountain that I did with Dented Mcghee was when he really pissed me off.

Laramie Talk Show was the first route Dinged-up and I did at Reese. It was over a rainy Memorial Day weekend in 1995. The route is short but has good, consistent climbing from the get-go. I have very fond memories of it, and no, Dingus didn't give me a play-by-play while I was climbing it. It was a project of his, and he indicated he had brushed it and tried it once or twice. I led a lower pitch (5.10ish) to get to cold shut anchors and a belay shelf at the start of the thin crack, thinking Dinged-up wanted to have another go at it. When he got to the belay shelf, he said he wasn't interested, but that I could give it a try if I wanted.

It was a nice-looking thin crack so I decided to check it out before the rains started again. The foot holds at the start were pretty green and slick and commented it was awfully lichen-covered for having been brushed. Dingy then replied that he didn't brush all of them, but did clean the footholds at the crux. Up higher, my fingers were getting pretty flamed and was way out-of-balance, thinking I was about to fall off. Then low-and-behold, I saw a brushed foothold on the other side of the crack. After a quick shift of weight I was set up for a tips lieback through the crux and on to the summit, with cramped forearms but feeling very proud at having pinched a route from Dingus for once. He followed the pitch and was as grumpy as I have ever seen the old fart. Feeling a bit sorry for him when he got to the belay, I explained that I probably would not have sent the route my first try without him having told me he brushed the crux footholds. In a huffy, gruff Dingus voice he told me "alright, you may have done the first ascent, but it does not count as an onsight because you had prior information about the route." I was sort of miffed at his slight and told him that "all you Laramie climbers do is talk about climbing cracks, but that is all it is, a damned talk show." We both laughed and a route name was born. Jul 11, 2014

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