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Smoking Gun
5.10b,
Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
FA: Damon Johnston and Julie Hodson, 2003
Colorado
> Naturita & Para…
> Sunshine Wall (River…
Description
This has fun moves up clean rock!
Pitch one: 5.10, 100 feet. Climb over 3 bolts to a ledge, then clip 3 more to gain a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is protected by the last 2 bolts passing through a couple of small roofs...super fun!
Pitch two: 5.9, 100 feet. Climb straight up clean, sustained 5.9 for several bolts before getting a well-deserved break in the route. Continue up some more tricky terrain before reaching the comfy 2 bolt belay ledge. There are maybe eight bolts to an anchor.
Location
This is the route furthest right on the wide Open Spaces Wall. The first bolt is up high after scrambling up some easier terrain.
Protection
10-12 draws is probably too much. Two raps on quicklinks get you back down.
![Jess leading her way through the sustained start of pitch 2.]()
[Hide Photo] Jess leading her way through the sustained start of pitch 2.
![Heather on Sunshine Slabs, 3.4.14.]()
[Hide Photo] Heather on Sunshine Slabs, 3.4.14.
![At the first pitch anchor. The crux is the roofs just below me.]()
[Hide Photo] At the first pitch anchor. The crux is the roofs just below me.
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Western Slope
Also, I would call the second pitch 10a, the moves to the first couple bolts are cruxy, and a fall would mean hitting your belayer.
Just be solid at the grade, and it's no big deal ;) Great climbing, though! Apr 3, 2020
Montreal, QC
Thanks for the advice! I'm thinking of trying to become 'solid at the grade' but some friends said I might need a different pair of shoes.... I figured my ice boots, tools, and crampons would be perfect, because the sandstone is so soft here. Would you recommend crampons for these slabs or just go ahead and climb in Chacos?
Thanks a bunch. Apr 8, 2022
Nucla, CO