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Routes in The Second Wall

Indian Pipe V-easy 3
King Philip V3-4 6A+
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 2/18/12
Page Views: 32 total, 0/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Feb 19, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

Fun committing highball - Stand start under the wide slot at the top and at the little left facing corners down low. Take your pick of the available holds (I used two underclings), pull on and get establish high enough to reach a sharp incut flake with a thumb catch with your left hand, or go all the way up to a good incut pocket in the back if you are tall. A high right pinch will then get you up to a sloper where you can match. Bring your feet up, so you can reach a good edge in a seam up and out left from which you can gain the good horizontal. Carefully top out through the slot.

The sit down start should add considerable difficulty, and the low traverse in from the left even more.

Location

near the middle of the high face, directly below the wide slot at the top

Protection

multiple pads and a good spot. The landing is rocky and it is highball. Don't fall from high.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
With the new hold, maybe the sit-down start will be more worthy of working on. I gave the route the grade of V3-4 because it felt a little easier than Squatch to me, but more committing with the sketchier landing. It was just a guesstimate though. May 9, 2013
RhodeIslandJeff
Westerly, RI
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
I was cleaning the flake to left on the start and a piece fell out making a sidepull flake which made a substantially better starting hold than the left undercling. Unfortunately it also added about 6 inches in reach to the incut hold you can dyno to. Might be an easier start for someone tall but that upper incut is anything but easy. I stuck that thing like 6 times and each time I fell off once I tried bumping up to a better hand hold or took my left foot off. I've been climbing pretty regular and King Phillip sent me packing with a handful of blisters (using the right handed 3 finger jam start hold is easier than the crimpy undercling but has a price). Definitely in the V4+ range in my opinion and would be a 4 star problem if the landing was better. Metacom would be proud. May 8, 2013