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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Hayden Miller
Page Views: 3,350 total, 48/month
Shared By: Eric Heiden on Feb 19, 2012
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A new contender for Pawtuckaway's best problem. FA'd by Hayden Miller on 12/16/2011.

From Hayden's description on sendage.com:
"Start matched on left slopper rail. Move up through gastons and crimps to arete then compress your way to the lip. Exit left."

I will add that (as someone who has many years of improvement ahead to even have a hope of doing this climb) it looks like an absolute instant classic.

Note: The 4-star rating of this route is passed along from Hayden's sendage.com report, where he suggest 5 stars - the maximum possible on sendage.

Location

From Leave It To Beaver continue just to the right around the corner (if the water is frozen you can walk right around the boulder, otherwise you'll need to do some scrambling).

Protection

Multiple pads and spotters. This is tall and is not a gimme at the top.

Photos

Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Video of Pretty Bloc Swag at ~6:37: vimeo.com/90131061 May 15, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
One of the most aesthetic problems at Pway. Absolutely brilliant. Amazing send, Hayden. Aug 27, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It looks gorgeous. I wish I was climbing that hard to give it a serious go. Apr 23, 2012
Hayden Miller
  V11
Hayden Miller  
  V11
Glad this got put up on here. Hopefully it will help motivate people to get out on this rig.

As I wrote on Sendage, I started this line matched on the left sloper rail. The rail was very good and it seemed the most logical location to pull onto the boulder. I immediately put my heel on and did a very unique mantle type move off of the gaston rail to the right onto my heel then crossed over myself with my left hand to the flat crimp. From there it is easy to reach out to the arete and start compressing upwards. A jug exists at two thirds height where I was able to get a pretty good shake. From there, I grabbed a pinch on the arete just above the jug and did another mantle type move with my heel on the jug so I could gain the left sloper arete. I found this move very committing when trying it from the start. A few quick compression moves gets you standing on the jug and then I brought my feet out left to do a tenuous mantle onto the slab. I found this exit both the easiest and most secure. It kept me over the flat landing, as opposed to trying to go right and head up the main arete. The boulder is listed as 15' in the description but I would say 20' is a better approximation. I think it breaks down to something like V8/9 (opening sequence to gain arete) to V9 (compression to jug) to V7 (jug to mantle).

In my opinion, the 5th star is a personal star that only exists between the individual and boulder. For me, this problem earns the 5th star. It was my first hard problem after injuring my pulley 4 months earlier and there were a lot of mental barriers I had to overcome as to whether the problem was possible for me. Regardless of my opinion, the great rock quality, clean line, flat landing, and unique movement of this problem make it one of the best around. Apr 23, 2012