Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Simeon
Page Views: 3,612 total · 40/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 18, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Description

A tall bolted route on the left middle section of Orangutan Buttress. A stiff start up a short shallow open book under the first bolt, followed by an interesting jaunt up the face. Three quarters of the way up the cliff is a roomy ledge with a pair of belay/rappel chains. From there, combine finesse and brute force to tackle the roof immediately off the deck - don't kick your ledge partners in the helmet - then haul over the bulge up the steep short second pitch to the top. If you're lucky you'll surprise a hiker around Cedar Overlook.

P1: 5.7, 7 bolts to anchor, ~80 feet.
P2: 5.9+, 4 bolts to anchor, ~30 feet.

From Nancy: "The first pitch is a 5.7, 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 50m to rappel. The second pitch is 5.9+/10a 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 70m to rappel from the top or 2 rappels with a 50m or 60m. This route is well protected and should not need a R rating. As far as the history goes, people have been climbing at RS since the 1940's and I'm sure at some point this line has been climbed, however there is no documented accent of the first pitch in any of the old guidebooks. The second pitch however, was a old top rope variation of orangutan rated 5.9+. "

Location

The only bolted line on Orangutan Buttress.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Optional pair of belay/rappel chains 3/4ths of the way up the route. Another pair of chains at the top. Quickdraws are adequate, but produce rope drag. Extend a couple of alpine draws instead and it runs more smoothly.

I've heard this was climbed before the bolts went up in 2011, but it looks like it'd be pretty runout.

Photos