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Routes in i. Orangutan Buttress

Dirty Sanchez S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Orangutan T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: [[107074222]]
Page Views: 2,943 total, 42/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 18, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

A tall bolted route on the left middle section of Orangutan Buttress. A stiff start up a short shallow open book under the first bolt, followed by an interesting jaunt up the face. Three quarters of the way up the cliff is a roomy ledge with a pair of belay/rappel chains. From there, combine finesse and brute force to tackle the roof immediately off the deck - don't kick your ledge partners in the helmet - then haul over the bulge up the steep short second pitch to the top. If you're lucky you'll surprise a hiker around Cedar Overlook.

P1: 5.7, 7 bolts to anchor, ~80 feet.
P2: 5.9+, 4 bolts to anchor, ~30 feet.

From Nancy: "The first pitch is a 5.7, 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 50m to rappel. The second pitch is 5.9+/10a 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 70m to rappel from the top or 2 rappels with a 50m or 60m. This route is well protected and should not need a R rating. As far as the history goes, people have been climbing at RS since the 1940's and I'm sure at some point this line has been climbed, however there is no documented accent of the first pitch in any of the old guidebooks. The second pitch however, was a old top rope variation of orangutan rated 5.9+. "

Location

The only bolted line on Orangutan Buttress.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Optional pair of belay/rappel chains 3/4ths of the way up the route. Another pair of chains at the top. Quickdraws are adequate, but produce rope drag. Extend a couple of alpine draws instead and it runs more smoothly.

I've heard this was climbed before the bolts went up in 2011, but it looks like it'd be pretty runout.
This is a great climb, and locals often comment that it is one of the best. Getting started can be difficult as one of the cruxes is right at the beginning of this climb. The holds are there, but figuring out your second hold can be tough. Using a clip stick for the first bolt is helpful, but not necessary once you figure out the initial puzzle.

Also, Orangutan Buttress is to the right of Open Face, which is one of the most popular climbs at High Rocks. So expect to have neighbors and be mindful of where you place your gear so that you aren't in the way of the adjacent climbs even if they are initially unoccupied. Oct 16, 2016