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Routes in Big Overhang

Gandolf Won TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Jewel TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Keith's Way TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 939 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike Cohen on Feb 15, 2012
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

This short strength-y 5.11 is probably tied with Pee Wee's for the best route at Penitentiary Hollow. From the start, traverse up and left, crossing over hands on big ledge holds. Surmount the small bulge up to a big hueco and shake it out. The crux comes right after this, a powerful move up and right to a small gaston, and then a few more crimps to the finish.

Location

The chalked up route on the far right end of the big overhang wall. It is directly left of the cryptically named "Gandolf Won," Mineral Wells's only purported 5.12.

Protection

top rope only.

Photos

EvJohnson
  5.10d
EvJohnson  
  5.10d
In order to finish at about 5.10d traverse off of the rail leading right after the crux. To make it 5.11a/b go straight up through a long reach to a tiny crimp then finish directly over the top. Both fun, best 5.11 at Mineral Wells. Dec 10, 2013