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Routes in The Main Cliff

Caving Misbeehaving S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cool Breeze, Couple of Knees S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Donkey following Carrots S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don’t Be Jenga S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fabricated for your pleasure S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Good Looking Bat Hooking A3- PG13
Sweetness is in the hand of the beeholder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Aid, 90 ft
FA: Ian Lingley, Cory Hall, Eric Samis
Page Views: 38 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Feb 13, 2012
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

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Description

This incredible line follows the white streak up the center of this amazing blank face passing horizontal pin seams and finishing in water grooved limestone for the last 20’. This is an extremely blank face which the first 40' will require bat hooking between bolts and the occasional fixed piton. Towards the top of the climb there are more natural features/gear placements, where offset nuts with the use of a few small cams and a few pins or hooks placement will allow you to get to the anchor.
I truly hope that someone strong comes along and makes a free accent of this spectacular limestone overhanging wall, it could be free climbed around the 5.17b/c range.

Location

Right up the center of the crazy blank face.

Protection

Hooks(2min), Pitons, standard rack, offset nut, Hammer
This line could be done clean(no hammer) still using hooks and with the use of a couple fixed pins.

This could also be top roped from a few small cedars, and would make for a good practice aid.

Photos

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