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Heady Areteddy

5.9, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 01. Practice Wall

Description

Climb the arete left of Gastonia Crack(5.4). An overhung flake is the first crux leading to a good ledge to traverse cliff right onto the arete. This is the second crux that leads straight up the arete to a slabby mantle top out. Once on the ledge climb the 'boulder' left on the platform. Top out and scramble to the bolted anchor for (Gastonia Crack and Playground).

Location

Right of Black Flag(5.10)

Left of Gastonia Crack(5.4)

Protection

North Carolina Trad Rack, share the bolted anchor with Gastonia Crack and Playground. Kind of hard to top rope without a directional on the 'boulder' finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric halfway up
[Hide Photo] Eric halfway up
Practice Wall<br>
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Heady Areteddy(5.9) trad<br>
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Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy(5.9) trad Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Practice Wall<br>
<br>
Heady Areteddy (5.9)<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy (5.9) Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Practice Wall<br>
<br>
Heady Areteddy (5.9) trad<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy (5.9) trad Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Practice Wall<br>
<br>
Heady Areteddy(5.9) trad<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy(5.9) trad Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Practice Wall<br>
<br>
Heady Areteddy (5.9) trad<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy (5.9) trad Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Practice Wall<br>
<br>
Heady Areteddy (5.9) trad<br>
(staying off of Gastonia Crack and Playground)<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Caroina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy (5.9) trad (staying off of Gastonia Crack and Playground) Crowders Mountain State Park, North Caroina
Practice Wall<br>
<br>
Heady Areteddy (5.9+) trad<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
[Hide Photo] Practice Wall Heady Areteddy (5.9+) trad Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Gallimore
Greensboro
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun route but extremely chossy. I found maybe 4 actual placements that would hold a fall without breaking the rock. Ended up going way left towards the top and into the big chimney on the face, as this looked like the most natural path, but there wasn't really any solid rock for good gear. This is probably best done as a top rope. Jan 30, 2021