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Routes in 11 - The Cookie Sheet

Cookie Sheet, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Darkside T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emm Too T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eye Noir S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Plastic Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slipstream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smear Campaign T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wump World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw, Bob Steed, 10/07
Page Views: 1,713 total, 24/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 12, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This was my favorite of the Cookie Sheet routes I've done so far. It is possibly the longest on the wall, reaching the highest point on the slab over on the right side. The route begins on the far right side of the highest ledge system, just before a drop-off.

The first pitch climbs through some 5.8 friction and then some small corners and features up to the anchor. The second pitch is hard for 20 ft right off the belay and has a tenuous clip at the first bolt. Have your belayer hanging out to the left so you don't fall on their head if you blow it. After that it's more cruising up to another anchor. The 3rd pitch works through some steeper (but still low-angle) bulges on featured rock and then climbs up a final slab to the anchor just below the headwall.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Good on ya' Dan Dingle and co. Jul 20, 2017
If those moss ledges are still intact I will eat my Chaco!

Hopefully our paths cross again sometime soon!

/Chris Callegari Jun 3, 2016
FA: Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw, Bob Steed, 10/07 Mar 7, 2012