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Routes in Glen Canyon

Broken Bow Arch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheesebox, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Chimney Rock C0+
Don't Do That Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 R
Giant Vagina, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hole-lee Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Middle Finger Tower, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-
Sandcastle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tower Butte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1+
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Jerry Foreman, Dan Millis
Page Views: 980 total, 14/month
Shared By: The Great Dan Millis on Feb 8, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climbing restrictions and closures Details
Climbing regulations are in effect. Details

Description

We were looking for the ultimate offwidth/chimney, but climbed this instead. Loose rock, crux is at the roof and topping out without sending a sandstone salvo down on your belayer. Dirty, wet, and loose.

Location

Not in Glen Canyon Rec Area but not worth making a whole new Utah area. Pretty close by. This route is on the left-hand wall as you walk down Buckskin Gulch. There is a fee required to access this wilderness area (pay at the trailhead), and you gotta pack out your doo-doo. May require several swims, a frigid prospect in winter.

Protection

Big pro (see topo). Rap anchors a bit upstream on the rim. Hand-drilled in '97 so...

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