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Routes in Kegeti Valley

Kegeti Waterfall S,TR WI4-
Tour Base Ice T WI3-4
Upper Kegeti Waterfall T WI3+
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Type: Sport, TR, Ice, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total · 2/month
Shared By: Amadeus on Feb 7, 2012
Admins: Amadeus

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This is a great ice waterfall. Its visible from the road and is only a 5 minute walk from the car. Its pretty rarely climbed, but this is a very accessible climbing area, which means this is probably one of the most often climbed waterfalls near Bishkek. There are two variations of the route. the first goes straight up the main trunk all the way to the top. The second starts on the smaller piece of ice to the right, and you do a couple mixed moves to get over to the main trunk.

The biggest issue with this waterfall is that the volume is high enough that parts of it don't really freeze over too well. Portions of the upper part of the waterfall are very thin and brittle. This makes placing ice screws very sketchy.


Location is obvious.


I suggest a top rope till you figure out where the ice is good for placing screws. There is a tree at the top that looks fantastic for setting up a top rope, but its sketchier than you would imagine to try to set it up. Further back from the fall there is another, larger tree that is much better, but make sure you use a really long piece of webbing to set up a top rope, or your rope won't reach to the ground! We only had 1 foot extra on each end of our 60 Meter rope.


Bishkek, KG
Amadeus   Bishkek, KG  
Well the waterfall is definitely NOT frozen yet on November 24th. There is some ice, but not enough to climb yet. Gonna have to wait a little longer. However, after spending about 2 hours or more hammering away with Jeff Waalkes, there is now a beautiful new anchor at the top of the waterfall. Using double ropes is the best for this anchor as it is probably 31 meters to the bottom..just a little too far for a single rope rappel. Nov 24, 2012
Bishkek, KG
Amadeus   Bishkek, KG  
February 24, 2018 and the ice is definitely NOT in anymore. It gets sun most of the day and so disappears sooner than most other waterfalls in the area.

Also, we put in anchor bolts at the top in 2012 (see other comment) but someone has since chopped them off. Happens a lot around here with people chopping reachable bolts to sell the metal as scrap... Feb 28, 2018

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