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Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ? Jed Gantert and Tyson Curtin-Nourse 2009 (This version)
Page Views: 618 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jed G on Feb 7, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

p.1 suprisingly fun, and the rock is pretty solid as compared to how it looks from afar, navigate a world of 5.8 rock to set up belay for The Book.

p.2 Climb over blocky ledges to get into the book. Look out for wasps. Climb the corner with thin crack to the top.

Location

Obvious book to the left of Beautiful day. See beta photo. I like to rap in from the big Doug Fir that hangs over the canyon on the East wall of the South Side and scramble across the drainage to the toe of the north side

Protection

normal rack, you might want to have a nut tool with you if you are leading because the thin crack in this rarely climbed corner can get filled with dirt. Clean it out and stuff a .4 or something like that

Photos

Jed G
 
Jed G  
 
Thanks, glad you agree with the rating. Did you have another name for the Book part of this route? Sep 1, 2017
Its great you found a link up from the bottom of the canyon. I attempted to find a direct start straight down from the corner but never made it happen. I agree with the 10a rating Apr 26, 2013