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Routes in The First Wall (Warm Up Wall)

Center Stage V0 4
Living in a Hole V0 4
Romney's Dog V1+ 5
Shit or Get Off The Pot V0-1 4+
V-Easy V-easy 3
Warm Up Traverse V0 4
Wiessner's Crack V-easy 3
Type: Boulder, 21 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 48 total · 1/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Feb 5, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

Hopefully I will come up with a better name soon so I don't have to think of his owner, but you may feel like his dog when working into the layback up high. Just don't poop yourself or you will be hosed. Near the right side of the First Wall are some stacked roofs topped by a nose with a vertical crack running up beside it. Stem off the slab under the left side of the lowest roof and climb up to the layback crack that is the start of Wiessner's Crack, which will get you to the lip of the second roof. Climb the middle of the face using a quartz edge as an intermediary to gain a nice scoopy hold just below the upper vertical crack. There was a nice but crumbly pocket at the lip on the FA, but subsequent cleaning took it away, so you get to use the good layback flake to the left. Once matched on the scoopy hold, bring you left foot up and reach around the arete with your right hand to gain a good incut in the horizontal which will allow you to set up to layback the upper crack. Thankfully there is bomber finger lock at the top that will get you securely up to the top out knobs. -highball with a potentially rocky landing

Location

On the right side of the First Wall - starts under the stacked roofs

Protection

Don't fall. If you do, you will want a few pads and a good spotter.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You should be scared. A fall from up high would be nasty with those rocks below. It is not really bad once you make the commitment, but you do want to be sure of your self so you don't over grip and pump out. You have got to breath on those highballs! May 9, 2013
RhodeIslandJeff
Westerly, RI
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
I've been climbing in from the right but the crux at the top is essentially the same. Scary as hell that is. I made it to the layback again last night but ended up pissing myself downclimbing from the crux. two words for this one; gripped and pumped. Can't wait to grow a pair and send. May 8, 2013
RhodeIslandJeff
Westerly, RI
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
I made it to the dish moved right to the corner took one look down and said F' that. Maybe fresh with an extra pad and a spotter. Either I did the move up to the dish wrong or its definitely a very muscle y move. Look forward to trying this one again. Check the topout view before climbing. Feb 13, 2012