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Short Fuse
5.10c,
Trad, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 16
votes
FA: FFA June 28, 1992 by Tim Olson and Cindy Olson
Oregon
> Portland & The…
> Broughton Bluff
> (5) Spring Rock
Description
A short but fun moderate route. Start on a vertical wall with good holds off the ground. Fun moves take you through two bolts and the crux. After the second clip go up and right onto a ledge. Bring some nuts or a small cam to protect the final mantle to the anchor.
Location
It is the obvious bolted line on climbers right of Spring Rock.
Protection
Two draws and some small pro. The anchor is two large rap rings.
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Chad Feb 8, 2012
- The gear does not add to the quality of the route. In fact, putting one piece in on a super shorty to protect a 5.6 move seems a bit silly to me.
- This would be a good warmup, but many people are deterred by the runout or necessity of bringing gear. Having this as a warmup would alleviate some traffic on the easier stuff at Bat Wall. I know people have raised objections in the past about dumbing down routes for people. I don't care about that, I care that objectively, fewer people are using this route which is putting more pressure on other routes, and 5.10 is a limited resource.
- This route isn't classic. It's not like we're retrobolting a sick crack, bro. Oh wait, that's not how trad climbers talk, is it. Anyway, I think the best use for this particular hunk of rock is as a warmup or an easy, low-commitment lead at the local crag.
Alright, bring on the hate! Aug 27, 2021