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Routes in Pigpen Boulder

Pigpen V4 6B
Yogi Variation, The V9 7C
Youth Body Explosion (aka Lamprecht Problem) V11 8A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Toni Lamprecht
Page Views: 1,024 total, 14/month
Shared By: Will S on Feb 5, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are plenty of big holds on this testpiece, one of Joshua Tree's hardest, but they can be difficult to use and well spaced at times. An exceptionally powerful and beta intensive line, bring all your core strength for this one!

Starting at the well chalked "tongue" where Pigpen starts, toss rightward straight into a small crimper and an eventual match at the ridiculous bowl underclings, then make a huge move to a sidepull with thumbcatch and apply various foot trickery with more hueco/bowl underclinging to eventually reach down and around to slopers above the lip. Surf the good lip slopers back left to finish on jugs.

Starts in your face and doesn't let up at all until you're out of the sidepull, at which point it relents. A true masterpiece that combines a brilliantly cryptic beta puzzle with raw, sustained body tension and accuracy.

One of the few harder lines here that is relatively skin-friendly. Errata: Toni's last name is incorrectly spelled in the original Miramontes guidebook (new guide is out anyday now!), I have used the correct spelling in this entry.

Location

Shares a start with Pigpen and goes through the middle of the bowls/huecos just right of the Pigpen roofcrack, then follows the lip back left on good slopers and jugs.

Protection

A pad or two.

Photos

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Toni named this problem Youth Body Explosion. If you like power slopers and body tension, then this climb is for you! Feb 6, 2012