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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aidan Maguire and Jerry Klatt, 2011
Page Views: 2,434 total, 35/month
Shared By: aaron hope on Feb 5, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is located just to the right of Lurch.

The first pitch is easy, 30 foot 5.4 scramble to a large ledge. There are two bomber black bolts with black chains that mark the beginning of the second pitch (you can see them from the ground).

The second pitch climbs fun knobby terrain terrain, mostly 5.7-5.8 with a distinct 5.9 crux. It starts off following a very small seam with knobs up and to the right. Follow the bolts to another set of anchors with chains (or continue to the top via easy 5.6 climbing protected by one more bolt). From anchor to anchor it's just at 100 feet.

Mostly protected by bolts, supplemented by the occasional gear placement. All in all, a well protected route. The initial 5.6 seam can be protected with a mirco cam 00 Purple C3. Above that there are placements for gear from 0.4 Grey Camalot to a #1 Red Camalot.

Note: you can easily reach the chains at the beginning of the second pitch by rapping from the top of Morticia with a 60 meter rope. Makes for a great double route combo.

Photos

SirTobyThe3rd
  5.9
SirTobyThe3rd  
  5.9
Soloed first pitch and led 2nd. Tricky to get in good pro at first if you do not have the right size (tiny). Climbing is really solid though. Well protected after that. Crux seemed to be the move around the bulge which has a bolt right before it and a spot for a #1 BD cam..although if you fall you will hit a ledge and it will hurt most likely. Great climb. Apr 16, 2012
C Miller   CA  
Aidan Maguire is his name. Mar 6, 2012
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
 
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
 
Was Aiden with Jerry on the first ascent? He was the one who told me about the route. I'd add him but I don't know his last name. Anyone? Mar 6, 2012