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Routes in West side of Greeley northern pond

Assortment , The WI3-4
5.8 Hand JAM Ice Pillar, The T WI5
Climbing VeraGlass or crash T WI2-3 X
Damnation Runnel WI3
Drool of the Beast, (formerly known as The Mini Black Dike) T WI5 PG13
East Osceola Cascade T WI2-3
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 160 ft, Grade II
FA: Members of the R.C.F. (Rattlesnake Climbing Friends) I think Bob Pike and Ron Renolds did the first ascent in the late 1970's
Page Views: 1,962 total · 27/month
Shared By: bradley white on Feb 3, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Past the last buttress with the big ice bulge (usually veraglass, super thick this year) is a hidden deep recess quite a ways south of it. At this recess is a large pillar (the crux). After the pillar enter the dike and continue up the steep chimney ice for another 130+ft. I never found it and that's good because there is no exit into the woods. No rope soloing this climb is a death wish.

Location

Many go looking for this climb and don't find it the first time. Same approach as 'Veraglass or crash'.

Protection

ice screws and small cams should suffice. Google Drool of the Beast, there are several great photos of it on line.

Photos

Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
This is in pretty great shape (1/10/17)!

I only followed it once about 12 years ago and it was definitely not in (no ice first 20-30 feet)...

Today I got to lead it. It got a little squirrelly in spots (when it gets tight don't face right) but otherwise was super fun. 5- is accurate as there are pretty good rests between the techy bits but you definitely notice the techy bits.

Get it while it is so good! Video from the day:

youtube.com/watch?v=nssjL1k… Jan 10, 2017
Eric Bluemn
Worcester, MA
 
Eric Bluemn   Worcester, MA
 
Approach via greeley pond trail, then at the sign for the Mt Osceola summit trail take a right and follow the bootpack trending uphill. The ice will be located up and to the right on the obvious crag. Some post-holing may be required to reach the base. Jan 10, 2017

More About Drool of the Beast, (formerly known as The Mini Black Dike)

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