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Routes in Main Boulder

A La Torry V3 6A
Dark Side of the Moon V0 4 PG13
Dogs of War V4+ 6B+
Goodbye Blue Sky V9-10 7C+
Magic Tricks V7 7A+
Post War Dream V2 5+
See Emily Play V0 4
Sunny Day Syd V3 6A
Terminal Frost V6 7A
Young Lust V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 453 total · 6/month
Shared By: Hoez on Feb 2, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start on an undercling and move up to a pocket. Then figure out how to get around the bulge and stick the mono - top out.

Location

This is the red route in the picture.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  V6
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  V6
My beta is to go right hand into the pocket, use a right heel scum on the bulge to go up left hand to a pebble/crystal. Crimp the crap out of that, and jump the right foot up on the bulge, then go left to the mono, and immediately gun for the jug right hand. Nov 25, 2015
Kevin Hadfield
New Castle, CO
  V6
Kevin Hadfield   New Castle, CO
  V6
Of all the established problems on the main face of the main boulder, this was the hardest in my opinion. Harder than both Young Lust and Magic Tricks. Dec 24, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V6
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V6
Certainly has broken holds as the move from the 2.5 finger pocket to the shallow 2 finger is improbable for the given grade. The route is probably V6 now and has lost a star. Aug 24, 2014
Nick Reecy    
This thing is an enigma to me. Anyone know if a major hold has broken on it? Seems very tough for the grade. Aug 24, 2014

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