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Routes in Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome)

Scoopin' Booty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Time'll Tell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 325 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andrew Megas-Russell, Craig Muderlak. Dec. 2011
Page Views: 890 total, 12/month
Shared By: Andrew Megas-Russell on Feb 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

P1: 5.9, 80ft. Use a half inch crack to protect the first moves as you climb up and angle right on good holds to gain the first bolt. Climb past three bolts to gain a crack which widens from hands to off-width to stemming. One #4 Camalot can be walked to protect this section. There is also a micro cam placement out left on the arête to protect the wideness above. Belay atop pillar at “a caballo” belay, either slinging the entire top of the pillar or using medium to large cams in a crack. Be sure to straddle the pillar while belaying or you have not really done the route.

P2: 5.8, 130ft. Continue up to a bolt and head left and up to a key .75 Camalot placement in a pod. Pass two bolts and seams for gear, then aiming right for an exposed horizontal crack that traverses right around a bulge. Climb through this, traversing right on an easy ramp and then straight up past a bolt to a hanging belay (medium to large cams) at a horizontal crack.

P3: 5.9+, ~75ft. Pull through steep face above on massive delicate chicken heads for about 15 ft. Campus/mantle out left around arête to gain a small stance. Climb the shallow right facing corner above which is protected by gear and two bolts. Belay on ledge above using small cams in a crack left of a bush.

P4: 5th class, 40ft. To gain summit, climb unprotected “5.easy” slab above using good edges. If the second feels uncomfortable soloing up behind the leader, a belay could be built on the backside of the summit in a shallow horizontal crack with a couple large cams. The rap bolts could potentially be used as an optional anchor, although the bolts are placed far back.

Location

Ghost Dome

Protection

Protection: One single 60m rope. Double set of cams .5 to #2 Camalot. One each blue TCU, yellow TCU, .4, #3 and #4 Camalot. Stoppers.

Photos

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