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Balance of Power

5.10b, Sport, 130 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 11 votes
FA: Trevor Bowman, Bryan Schmitz, Pete Thompson
Montana > Southwest Region > Madison River Area > Bear Trap Rd Ro… > Crew Crag

Description

A great route that requires three mini roof pulls. One of the longer single pitch climbs in the area. Bring slings and think about your clips to avoid rope drag. A 70 meter rope will leave you about 3 feet above the ground on the rappel. If you have a shorter rope there is an intermediate anchor about 5/8's of the way down. Pro-Tip: If you rap with a 70 you can use the intermediate anchor to allow you to rap all the way down to the scree field, thus avoiding the chossy downclimb of the chute.

Location

In the middle of the wall this is the bolt line that heads left and through a series of roofs.

Protection

17 Draws. Bring slings to make the rope drag less intense. 2 chain anchor at the top with another 2 chain anchor half way down the wall to assist those with shorter ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up from bottom of Balance of Power. Amazing sport route! Airy and exciting!
[Hide Photo] Looking up from bottom of Balance of Power. Amazing sport route! Airy and exciting!
Balance of Power, Madison River.
[Hide Photo] Balance of Power, Madison River.
Balance of Power.
[Hide Photo] Balance of Power.
Clark stepping off the vein. about 1/4 the way up.
[Hide Photo] Clark stepping off the vein. about 1/4 the way up.
Topo for Balance of Power
[Hide Photo] Topo for Balance of Power

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Wenger
Bozeman
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] We used 5 extendable draws. Such a great route! One of the best in the area. 70m rope BARELY puts you back on the belay ledge. If you are lightweight you could land on some big ledges just up and right of the belay. Midway rappel anchors were super useful to avoid the downclimb at the end of the day. Nov 5, 2016
Trevor Olson
Bozeman
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] As Matt Wenger said above, we used 5 extendable draws, but to be perfectly honest, I would've been happier with more. We just ran out of them. Almost wouldn't hurt to extend just about every bolt...But regardless, a GREAT route. Not very sustained either. In my opinion, probably only 10a, and just 3 moves of that (split up through the route) Each roof is a crux. Nov 7, 2016
Evan Schock
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] awesome!

heinous wasp next in a crack to the right of the 6th bolt as of 3/25/2107

70M put me on the ground with an inch to spare. i weigh 175 Mar 28, 2017