Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Lizz Grenard
Page Views: 791 total · 5/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Jan 30, 2012

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Bird closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

If the wall is slimy, just take a few moments to dry off the holds of this route because its a total gem, and is the best 5.12 on the island. According to Louie from Team Voodoo (at log book at the Bluff House) it's the best route he did over the 8 days there.
Climb up the black eroded stone to where the wall starts to kick back and you gain the large cave but don't bother with kneebars here. You can go slightly right with big moves to gain the black horizontal band, or slightly left. This black rock (we're talkin used 10W30 black here) is really a sight to see in itself, and a very unique feature of limestone among otherwise very white rock. From here it would be obvious to go slightly left of the bolt line but you encounter crumbly rock and a big throw. More correctly, take a quick right turn to round the corner just right of the bolt line to maintain bullet hard rock and a series of huecos to gain a pod for a no-hands kneebar that is so good and so comfortable there is no need for a kneepad. Finish on easier moves to the anchor. In the series of huecos there was a plant and a lot of mud in one of the holds. I spent several minutes cleaning that up since the slime could ruin a perfectly good redpoint in that pumpy section.

Location Suggest change

left most TI route, starting at the obvious black streak.

Protection Suggest change

10 TITANIUM bolts plus 2 bolt anchor


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