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Routes in Alisters Cave

Diary of a Dope Fiend V8 7B
Sex Magician V7 7A+
Sex Magician Sit Start V8 7B
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Scott Cosgrove
Page Views: 1,933 total, 27/month
Shared By: Will S on Jan 30, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This problem is a super classic, and perhaps the best problem of its grade in Joshua Tree. Essentially Caveman's big, secluded brother. Climb the sustained roof on jams, edges and heel hooks with a dynamic finish on sloper slapping. Some trickery allows you to completely recover before launching into the final sequence. The plastic-trained climber who loves gymnastic moves on relatively large holds will adore this one.

Location

At the far right side of Alister's Cave is a chalked jug and overhead handjam slot. Sit start and work through the roof ending at obvious jugs in a break just above the dismal finishing slopers.

Protection

A single pad will suffice, but have a spotter who can drag it as you climb. If you're solo and at your limit two pads would be nice.

Photos

RTM
RTM  
Btw, great find! One of the best in all of JT bouldering. For years I heard rumors of this roof back in the day - "Cosgrove's Roof" as it was known, almost mythical in status! When I finally found it I was not disappointed! Sep 18, 2013
RTM
RTM  
I put up a little diddy left of DF - called it Perpetual Darkness! Sep 18, 2013
Scott Cosgrove
  V8-9
Scott Cosgrove  
  V8-9
It's so funny to read Will's post, as It was so chossey when I was first trying it, that my friends thought me crazy.

I did it to the last move, and then a guy named Paul? did the final boulder problem, after that it was all one problem.

I think I may have link it first but it was a long time ago and it could have been anyone of us.

I'm glad to hear it's cleaning up and the rock that remains is solid, I heard Fred N did a boulder problem to the left of the DF, anyone know? Sep 17, 2013