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Routes in Poetry Rock

Poetry In Motion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Powerslave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Clark Freidgen
Page Views: 282 total · 4/month
Shared By: Murf on Jan 28, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a great sport route in a sunny pocket away from the crowds. A distinct crux occurs moving past the second bolt from a powerful undercling. Solid, slightly overhanging edges lead to the top.

This fun route deserves more traffic, even though the large undercling feature may not be able to handle it.

Location [Suggest Change]

Powerslave is on a sub boulder in the Poetry Rock clump. From the The Balcony area of the Jimmy Cliffs this route is located on a wall in the Poetry clump you can see before the prominent spire. From afar it looks like a half height boulder against a larger pillar. When one gets closer the formations resolve themselves into distinct features.

The route isn't listed in Joshua Tree West, the Miramontes Guide, or Barlett's (although I didn't check the 2nd version).

Protection [Suggest Change]

4 bolts with a two bolt anchor with chains.

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C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
The name of the route is Powerslave and while originally rated 5.11+ by the first ascent party it seems a little easier than that. Jan 29, 2012
Murf
 
Murf  
 
No only 4 bolts, just mental mix up with The Balcony. Thanks for correcting the name and adding the FA. Jan 29, 2012
tro4130
Vista, CA
  5.11b/c
tro4130   Vista, CA
  5.11b/c
was really worried the undercling wasn't very solid so I tried to avoid it and couldn't get anywhere. Gotta give this one a second attempt! Feb 6, 2012

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