Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Poetry Rock

Poetry In Motion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Powerslave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Clark Freidgen
Page Views: 267 total, 4/month
Shared By: Murf on Jan 28, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a great sport route in a sunny pocket away from the crowds. A distinct crux occurs moving past the second bolt from a powerful undercling. Solid, slightly overhanging edges lead to the top.

This fun route deserves more traffic, even though the large undercling feature may not be able to handle it.

Location

Powerslave is on a sub boulder in the Poetry Rock clump. From the The Balcony area of the Jimmy Cliffs this route is located on a wall in the Poetry clump you can see before the prominent spire. From afar it looks like a half height boulder against a larger pillar. When one gets closer the formations resolve themselves into distinct features.

The route isn't listed in Joshua Tree West, the Miramontes Guide, or Barlett's (although I didn't check the 2nd version).

Protection

4 bolts with a two bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

- No Photos -
tro4130
Vista, CA
  5.11b/c
tro4130   Vista, CA
  5.11b/c
was really worried the undercling wasn't very solid so I tried to avoid it and couldn't get anywhere. Gotta give this one a second attempt! Feb 6, 2012
Murf
 
Murf  
 
No only 4 bolts, just mental mix up with The Balcony. Thanks for correcting the name and adding the FA. Jan 29, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
The name of the route is Powerslave and while originally rated 5.11+ by the first ascent party it seems a little easier than that. Jan 29, 2012