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Lost Fingers
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches |
FA: | P. Cottescu-J. Arias 1/82 |
Page Views: | 1,477 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Dan Petty on Jan 25, 2012 |
Admins: | Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Pitch 1 - 5.10a:
Start in a short finger crack that is vertical with a small roof containing a piton. Pull over the bulge and continue up a ramp with crack to a 3-piton anchor.
Pitch 2 - 5.10a:
From the anchor traverse right for 10 meters following a discontinuous foot ledge and horizontal finger crack to a corner. Follow the corner crack system upward for 10 meters until a ledge system allows you to trend back toward the left and upward to the right side of a large roof. Belay from pitons and a large slung horn.
Pitch 3 - 5.10c:
Follow the slightly overhanging thin-hands crack for 20 meters and pull a lip leading to lower angled climbing (7 meters) and a bolted rap anchor.
Descent:
Rap to the pitch one anchors for Diedro de Jim and from there down to the forth class gully which leads back to the base of the route.
Start in a short finger crack that is vertical with a small roof containing a piton. Pull over the bulge and continue up a ramp with crack to a 3-piton anchor.
Pitch 2 - 5.10a:
From the anchor traverse right for 10 meters following a discontinuous foot ledge and horizontal finger crack to a corner. Follow the corner crack system upward for 10 meters until a ledge system allows you to trend back toward the left and upward to the right side of a large roof. Belay from pitons and a large slung horn.
Pitch 3 - 5.10c:
Follow the slightly overhanging thin-hands crack for 20 meters and pull a lip leading to lower angled climbing (7 meters) and a bolted rap anchor.
Descent:
Rap to the pitch one anchors for Diedro de Jim and from there down to the forth class gully which leads back to the base of the route.
Boulder
Somerville, MA
I thought P1 felt pretty stiff as well (right at the start). It's pretty polished.
Rope drag can be pretty bad on P2, as should be obvious from the route topo. Jan 11, 2017