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Routes in Bombardier Wall

Crash Test Dummy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Failed Stunt Jump TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Asphalt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mark Collar & Richard Shore, August 2011
Page Views: 79 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crash Test Dummy (5.10d) tackles the longest aspect of the Bombardier Wall, and is the original and standout line here. This route is characterized by sustained thin face climbing on beautiful and seemingly bulletproof patina plates and edges. Good position, great movement, and quality rock (for SB) warrant 3 out of 4 stars.

Location

Starting near a healthy oak tree at the lower right end of the wall, climb up past three bolts, make crux moves left, and continue traversing left and up passing 4 more bolts en route to the apex of the cliff.

Protection

7 bolts, sport anchor (all 1/2").

Photos

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10d
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10d
If you've climbed Self-Reflection on Gibraltar, then you have a good sense of how this route climbs. Imagine a WHOLE ROUTE sporting those great patina-ripples from Self-Reflection. Very, very fun climbing, with a spicy crux-traverse sequence past the third bolt. The difficulties crescendo distinctly at several other points, but the entire route stays fairly engaging. Solid 10+ climbing. Feb 19, 2012