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Routes in Bombardier Wall

Crash Test Dummy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Failed Stunt Jump TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Asphalt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Richard Shore & Mark Collar, January 2012
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Red Asphalt (5.10b) is a short but demanding lead. The line follows iron-stained rock with thin incut face, a short crack, and finishes with a fun arête/lieback combo on the left end of the Bombardier Wall.

Location

Start off a small boulder, just left of a bush, which is just left of a half-dead oak tree on the left side of the cliff.

Protection

3 bolts, sport anchor (all 1/2").

Photos

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10b
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10b
As Richard noted, this lead isn't very long.

But don't be deceived! The moves up high—while not terribly strenuous—demand some technical savvy. After the third bolt, it's tempting to escape left on to the chossy arete. Without giving too much away, employ some creative "bear-hugging" and things ease up pretty quick.

Another solid little line Bombardier Crag. Feb 19, 2012