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Routes in The Bulges

1923 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
3RNs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. No Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octabulgey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Only Nest Twice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Geir H., Valerie B., Marcy M., Pippie
Page Views: 51 total · 1/month
Shared By: Marcy M on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Located on the feature left of Dr. No Way. Route follows the vertical crack the right side of the face. Good rock and great gear opportunities make this a good option for a beginning trad lead for the area. Two options to finish, described below.

As the angle of the rock lessens:

1. Continue to follow the crack as it trends slightly left to the belay/rap anchor for 3 RNs.

2. Step right onto low angled, featured rock, heading toward a bulge. Pull the bulge and continue to the top. A short/easy down-climb will put you at the belay/rap anchor, which is located on the rock face just behind the rout. The bulge protects well, keeps the route at 5.6, and, in my opinion, is the better finish. Rap down the gully behind the route. An easy walk around puts you back at the base of the route.

Protection

Singles through #3 Camalot

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
This climb uses the rap anchors from 3RNs, but we will probably install a different set of anchors somewhere to the right if it looks like the climbing will continue at a similar grade. Jan 26, 2012
Nice. 3RNs....! Funny stuff. Jan 30, 2012

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