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Routes in The Courtyard

At the Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bone Stimulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Disconnect S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pulp Friction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Royale with Cheese TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sliver of Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 23, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up a thin mottled slab via thin edges to gain twin knobs then punch it over the bulge on thin crimps to finish up the very easy plated slab to anchors.

This route has been rated 5.10a in various guidebooks but is much harder than that taking the obvious line up the face. Evidence of broken rock at the bulge as well as the initial slab suggest that perhaps the holds that made it easier now lie at the base.

A 5.10a (ish) way can be found by stemming off a boulder at the base to start and then climbing the right margin of the formation to bypass the crux bulge. This variation is not recommended due to the potential swing should one fall off.

Location

Starts about 8 feet right of Disconnect on a thin mottled slab.

Protection

TR

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Swing potential is still high on this route since it is top roped from the anchor of Disconnect pretty far left of the route line. The route is still pretty dirty - there are loose flakes near the crux that flex when pulled on (stick with the knobs mentioned). Felt a bit easier than some of the other .11s in the area, but probably because it is not very sustained? The bottom portion is very edgy and somewhat sequential. For sure this route hasn't seen a lot of traffic. May 2, 2012