Type: Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Beck and Clarissa Hageman
Page Views: 2,049 total · 14/month
Shared By: Thomas Beck on Jan 22, 2012
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is located South of the Keyhole area proper past the bouldering area, on the left margin of the white water-polshed granite slabs, in brown stone on the left edge of the easy to see big alcove and steep headwall. Mixed gear and bolts route.

Begin where the bushes end on the left margin of a gray and brown water polished slab, pull an easy boulder move and get out on a thin crack which you follow over a lap (maybe the 1st crux), then move left into the corner and through some blocks up to the top of the overhang feature, clip the bolt, move right and a funky #1 or #2 camalot protects the exposed mantle to the chain anchors.

Pitch 2 climbs the two crack systems and moves out right past several bolts to chain anchors...5.7

Pitch three paddles up the exfoliated slab past several bolts to chain anchors. Long slings on pitch 3 cut down on rope drag. You can rap the route with a single 70 m. rope if you are careful at the pitch two station ...rope stretcher there so have your anchor sling ready as you come off the end of the rap. This route was initially led ground up.

Location Suggest change

Drive down the Powerlines access road past the Keyhole turn-off till you cross a cattle guard. turn left and follow a faint track out past the power lines heading SW. Park on the edge of the arroyo and hike down and across the escarpment towards a broken fin of black Diorite. Cross through the band at its lowest point and stay on the right side of the white slab as you approach till you are across from two largest boulders in the wash. At that point go down into the dry wash and scramble across water polished rocks and up between the two boulders to a base camp below the route. Avoid the cats claw bushes if you can.

Protection Suggest change

single rack from wires (HB's are useful) and very small cams to #2 camalot and at least 7 over the shoulder slings for the third pitch.

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