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Routes in White Dream

Cryin' on the Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Get Up Stand Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Life on a Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
White Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Dream Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Beck and Clarissa Hageman
Page Views: 547 total, 8/month
Shared By: Thomas Beck on Jan 22, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This is located South of the Keyhole area proper past the bouldering area, on the left margin of the white water-polshed granite slabs, in brown stone on the left edge of the easy to see big alcove and steep headwall. Mixed gear and bolts route.

Begin where the bushes end on the left margin of a gray and brown water polished slab, pull an easy boulder move and get out on a thin crack which you follow over a lap (maybe the 1st crux), then move left into the corner and through some blocks up to the top of the overhang feature, clip the bolt, move right and a funky #1 or #2 camalot protects the exposed mantle to the chain anchors.

Pitch 2 climbs the two crack systems and moves out right past several bolts to chain anchors...5.7

Pitch three paddles up the exfoliated slab past several bolts to chain anchors. Long slings on pitch 3 cut down on rope drag. You can rap the route with a single 70 m. rope if you are careful at the pitch two station ...rope stretcher there so have your anchor sling ready as you come off the end of the rap. This route was initially led ground up.

Location

Drive down the Powerlines access road past the Keyhole turn-off till you cross a cattle guard. turn left and follow a faint track out past the power lines heading SW. Park on the edge of the arroyo and hike down and across the escarpment towards a broken fin of black Diorite. Cross through the band at its lowest point and stay on the right side of the white slab as you approach till you are across from two largest boulders in the wash. At that point go down into the dry wash and scramble across water polished rocks and up between the two boulders to a base camp below the route. Avoid the cats claw bushes if you can.

Protection

single rack from wires (HB's are useful) and very small cams to #2 camalot and at least 7 over the shoulder slings for the third pitch.

Photos

BigB
Red Rock, NV
BigB   Red Rock, NV
Such a cool route, I'd be for renaming this the Tom Beck Memorial Route. Jun 26, 2017
Thomas Beck
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Thomas Beck   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
The second pitch of Get Up Stand Up is a good 5.7+ entry lead. Protected when you might get a bit nervous and spicy but well protected finish... climbing past bolts on the steeper headwall to a semi-hanging station. Near the top of the pitch you are out of sight of the belayer.

first and third pitch are more comfortable for a more experienced climber. One poor lead bolt on pitch 3, but you are using long slings anyway to minimize rope drag on this delicate stemming pitch.
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There are a couple projects in the area. All projects are ground up leads. Please respect these or risk backing off your high point on a single bolt or that piece of gear you didn't want to leave.

On the right side of the alcove is a short steep clean dihedral with a bolt on the right face, near the top. You approach by climbing in the corner of the easy low angle slab below. To get off this you would have to continue up Cryin' on the Corner.

The main left facing white corner is White Dream, an established route...about 5.9. All gear and very good line IMO. A #4 friend is nice for the last pitch. You can descend once you summit by moving climbers right and carefully down-climb under a bulge - exposed 3rd class. There you will find rap anchors returning you to your starting point. Maybe you can get down with a single 70. We always had 2 - 50 or 60 meter ropes. Jan 22, 2012