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Routes in Three Graces

East Face/Three Graces TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Weenis Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Window, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson and Bob D'Antonio, 1983
Page Views: 323 total, 5/month
Shared By: Newton on Jan 21, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Follow the line of three pins and then over the small roof/bulge to the top of the west fin of Three Graces. The 5.11a crux can be avoided by lassoing the 2nd pin with a sling and staying to the left (5.10). Tying the pin off short may be a good idea anyway: it sticks out a fair amount from the rock, and the ring is rusted solid at a cross-loaded angle. Pulling the bulge direct felt 5.11a-ish, moving left and mantling into the large hueco is 5.10.

Since this route is rarely climbed, expect dirty and crumbly holds. It is a bold and scary route.

Location

Follow the obvious 3 pins on the west face of Three Graces. There are no anchors at the top of this climb. (Rolofson's guide mentions a large horn that can be used as an anchor, but I couldn't find one. There is a bulge up top that could perhaps be slung with 15-20 feet of webbing, but you'd have to leave it behind to rap down, which is a no-no at GotG.)

Finish on the 5.2 The Window to a 2 bolt/2 pin anchor with chains at the top of the formation and rap down either side (use a 60m rope for the west side). Weenis is very difficult to clean on rappel.

Protection

3 old pins, no anchor. Small cams might offer pro under the small roof, but that would be redundant to the 3rd pin. If you finish on The Window, some small cams and a set of nuts might come in handy if you don't want 60 feet of runout to the top (5.2 X).

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I climbed this route yesterday finishing at the top of Three Graces and rappelling back down the way I came to retrieve my gear (it was an interesting rappel). Let me tell you the second piton is sketchy as hell! I would not trust a lead fall, but the rest of the pitons were OK by Garden standards. Minus the second piton and the sandy holds, it was actually a really fun route. The runout above the third piton is a little unnerving, but I don't think it would be a groundfall, just really far. If that piton was replaced, I might actually do the climb again. If anybody wants to replace it and wants help, shoot me an email (garrettknorr@gmail.com), and I'll help and/or pitch money for a new bolt, because for some reason I actually kinda liked the route and don't want to see anyone hurt on it. May 25, 2016