PRINT: Rock Climb Sunset Tower, Southeast Utah

Sunset Tower

5.8 C1+, Trad, Aid, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson 11/95
Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > State Highway 313 > Random - Unsorted

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Pitch 1: Climb a shallow corner to a beding seam, move left two feet and continue up the crack. Move left to another crack when the one your in peters out. Continue up past a drilled pin to an awesome bolted belay. 100' C2.

Pitch 2: Climb the crack until you reach a drilled pin and step right to a corner. Climb the corner for about 10 feet to another awesome bolted belay. 5.8 C2 100'.

Descent: One 70 meter rope will get you down in two rappels.

Location

Located on the North side of Hwy 313 a mile or two west of Hwy 191. Look for a finger crack ground to summit on a face. Park on the road and hike about ten minutes to the base.

Protection

Double or triple set from small to #3 camalot, Hybrid aliens, Tricams, stoppers, one 70 meter.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice big tricam placement on the first pitch.

First pitch anchor. Bag o' rocks.

The route is just right of the center of the face.

Sunset as seen from a western approach. Unless your on top of it, or looking at the right angle, It's a little hard to tell it's a tower. The route is around the corner, just right of the middle of…

Looking up the steep 2nd pitch.

Follow the Splitter.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Kiessel
Durango, CO

5.8 C2

A 60 meter rope might work, but I'm not sure. Jan 21, 2012

Bret Ruckman

On April 20, 2001, Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb Sunset Tower. After working the first pitch on several days, spread out over perhaps a year, he was able to put his project "to rest". He "French freed" the first pitch, then top-roped it, then pulled the rope and led it clean, placing all gear on lead in perfect style. If I recall, it had a thin bit at the crack switch which was the technical crux, and required some critical face holds. Above that section was a perfect off-fingers splitter all the way to the belay, the endurance crux of the route. The lead took him 4 times longer than his top-rope ascent, and he was carrying a fairly hefty rack. It pushed him absolutely to his limit, but somehow he rose to the daunting challenge. I would definitely rate this pitch 5.13 a or b. With the first pitch under his belt, the pressure was on to lead the second pitch free. On a previous attempt of the second pitch, he had rested on a piece, but on this special day he led it without falls, and even looked solid on the dicey final moves, where it was very thin and sandy. This second pitch was probably 5.12b. Sunset Tower is an amazing splitter for most of two pitches, with a short approach, south-facing aspect, and close to Moab. Jan 23, 2012

Ben Folsom

That is great to know. I always thought that would be an amazing free climb. Cheers to Marco! Jan 24, 2012

Goodman Sachs

Anyone have a photo? Aug 15, 2012

A. Roberts
Boulder, CO

5.8 C1+

This is a great, straight forward, clean aid route (for most of us anyway). It's located about a mile down on the right from 191, at the end of the rock band, just before the alcove where "Class Act" is located. The belay's are in great shape, but the top of the 1st pitch is small and sloping. My calves were burning for the rest of my trip from standing in the aiders. May 2, 2013

Jeff Widen

Soloed this a few days ago - awesome, steep route!!!! I'd recommend a triple set as described, with 4 each of .5 and .75 Camalot size to reduce leapfrogging. A 60m will work on the rap from the summit, but NOT on the bottom rap, unless you're willing to downclimb 10-15 feet of steep rock. Jan 28, 2015

Jason Brown
Carbondale, CO

I saw chalk on it in 01' and also thought it would obviously go as a 13 line. Can't wait to try it! Apr 7, 2015

John Collis
Moab

60m rope juuuust makes it on the second rap with rope stretch. I tied a knot in one end on the pull strand, then jumped down 1 foot to the ground. As for racktricams, stoppers and hybrid aliens are pretty unnecessary. If I were to do it again: 3-4 each .3-.75 C4's, 2 red C3's, 1 green C3, 2 #2 C4's, 5 quickdraws. Jul 8, 2015

Dylan Fadgen
Montrose, CO

5.8 C1

Great route. Some totems and 4-5 .4-.75 c4s, 2 #1s, plus a few offset nuts make this a great c1 outing. May 22, 2021