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Routes in Sensational Slab

Sinsation V3 6A PG13
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 32 total · 0/month
Shared By: RhodeIslandJeff on Jan 19, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

The plum line running up the middle of the tall slab. Micro edges and small dimples make for a classic slab problem. A double tiered landing makes an interesting landing zone.

Location

On the Sensational Slab at the end of the 3 walls.

Protection

At least one pad and one spotter or two pads.

Photos

RhodeIslandJeff
Westerly, RI
 
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
 
Slabs are so hard to grade. Friction seems to be everything and I couldn't imagine doing this one on a humid or warm day. Even with good friction I thought I was gonna pop off at any second. I thought it was harder and more sustained than Big Hole at LW. I agree with the 4 stars (not to mention how can a slab be 4 stars) so I'm gonna drop it to 3. Jan 30, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  V1+
M Sprague   New England  
  V1+
I did this today. It is a nice route with good scoop toe smears and a finger edge that is just positive enough to make going for the summit secure. I had one pad so put it on the lower level to protect from the rock below, figuring I could bounce off the dirt ledge and aim for the pad.. Luckily I didn't need it. I brushed a few smears off that were still hidden under the lichen with my wire brush on the way up, so I think it may feel a little easier now. Strong 2 stars since I save 4 for something like Babyface at Hueco. great rock quality. Jan 29, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  V1+
M Sprague   New England  
  V1+
Nice Job. I was hoping to get out there today before the snow, but no go. Jan 19, 2012

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