J + J Groove
5.10a,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: FRA: jon o'brien, jasmine farro
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (12) Oak Creek…
> Friar & Byrd Pinnacle
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Where it be at yo?!
just right of the start of the friar. the friar is easily recognized in Oak Creek Canyon on the way to Solar Slab as the semi-free-standing tower with a large boulder capping it on the right side of the approach/ canyon.
rappel single 60 meter rope.
the start of the friar is marked by a scary body-sized leaning block beneath a large, right-facing dihedral. J + J Groove begins just right of the scary block under the chocolatey overhang/ shallow dihedral.
FRA for sure, i don't want to front: there are crappy old anchors midway(bare hangers, no chain or links, not great rock), I'm unsure if they are there to help rap the Friar with an old rope or if someone tried this as a project and never sent or if they did send and just didn't report or fully install rap anchors. the old midway anchors look 25-30 + years old, they appear in the Swain topo for the Friar with no mention otherwise.
ANYWAY, it is a great line and a great addition to the cragging area that includes the Byrd pinnacle, Red Zinger, and the Friar 1st pitch. possibly a lost Herbst route, possibly abandoned: be much scarier w/out today's gear.
What's that gear like sucka?!
standard to 4''. include rp's, off-set stoppers, and a set of C3's or MasterAliens to the smallest sizes.
Old bolted anchor w/out chain or link at midway (you could add chain or link if you trusted them) the climbing might be boring for many after the midway anchor. there is a good fixed nut/ bolt anchor at 100'.
It's Groooovy Baby!
immediately right of the start of the Friar there is a juggy start that pulls you up just right of the leaning block that begins the Friar. Immediately cruxing in the slight overhang to gain the shallow, groovy dihedral. place gear and then pull the crux. establish yourself in the dihedral and then groove your way over the overhang (30' total). easy, less-protected 5.4-5.6 for 20' to the easy crack above and another 50' to the anchor. i'd say a good warm-up before Red Zinger: short 10a crux.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Nevada
for now, you can't miss it if you are standing at the start of the friar it is the cleaner start a few ft. right... looks more intimidating than it ends up being Jan 31, 2012