Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||FRA: jon o'brien, jasmine farro|
|Page Views:||1,003 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Jon OBrien on Jan 19, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
rappel single 60 meter rope.
the start of the friar is marked by a scary body-sized leaning block beneath a large, right-facing dihedral. J + J Groove begins just right of the scary block under the chocolatey overhang/ shallow dihedral.
FRA for sure, i don't want to front: there are crappy old anchors midway(bare hangers, no chain or links, not great rock), I'm unsure if they are there to help rap the Friar with an old rope or if someone tried this as a project and never sent or if they did send and just didn't report or fully install rap anchors. the old midway anchors look 25-30 + years old, they appear in the Swain topo for the Friar with no mention otherwise.
ANYWAY, it is a great line and a great addition to the cragging area that includes the Byrd pinnacle, Red Zinger, and the Friar 1st pitch. possibly a lost Herbst route, possibly abandoned: be much scarier w/out today's gear.
Old bolted anchor w/out chain or link at midway (you could add chain or link if you trusted them) the climbing might be boring for many after the midway anchor. there is a good fixed nut/ bolt anchor at 100'.