Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 916 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rob Aumer on Jan 17, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This one-move-wonder is the bolted line in between Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus), and New River Gorge Homesick Blues. Climbers under 6' will struggle to reach the first bolt which protects the early and only crux. At 6'2", I had a long blind reach from underneath the roof to get the first bolt. Once you have the first bolt, gain a high left crimp and whatever feet you can, and dyno up to a huge jug. Once you've pulled the roof the rest of the route is probably 5.7 or 5.8.

Location

Look for the other obvious roof next to The Virus.

Protection

5 bolts (I think. It's short), 2 bolt anchor at the top to the left.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
At 5'10", it's doable though a stick clip would be wiser. The crux didn't seem like it was getting the jug (easier with the right hand) but rather the next sloper up and right with iffy feet. Jan 20, 2012
Andy Riley
Yangon, MM
 
Andy Riley   Yangon, MM  
 
Agreed Leo, I cruised to the jug but fell a couple of times going to the next hold. May 15, 2012
ShaneK
  5.11c/d PG13
ShaneK  
  5.11c/d PG13
Fun route. Really enjoy the crux. It doesn't have to dyno'ed. Oct 7, 2012