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Routes in Pocket Change Boulder

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Sasquatch
Page Views: 138 total, 2/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Jan 17, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This has hard crimping up a gently overhanging face! Big stabs to small crimps and technical body positioning/footwork make this problem a really fun challenge.

SDS with a good left hand undercling/side-pull and a bad right hand side-pull crimp thing. Climb straight up the beautiful, black-streaked face on small crimps and underclings.

Again, the grade is nothing more than a suggestion. Try not to get your panties in a twist over it.

Location

This is on the far left side of the steep Northeast face of the Pocket Change Boulder 6 feet to the right of Under The Sea.

Protection

1-2 pads.

Photos

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Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
Skylar, I did this problem at the beginning of April by starting with both hands on the original left hand start hold. Erik Durgin also made mention of sending this and Under the Seaman a few weeks prior, using much different beta. There seems to be a bit of hollowness to the start hold mentioned above, and it is a bit unnerving to pull on it so hard at the start of the problem, though the problem is better overall. As for a grade, it's probably just a shade harder than it originally was. May 16, 2015
Skylar Smith
  V7-8
Skylar Smith  
  V7-8
There was a good crimp undercling on this that made this problem about 7/8. Then it broke...significantly harder. Haven't done it since. V8/9? May 13, 2015